Marcel Col (2987m) there is a great view into the Grand Plateau,
and the angle of the ice steepens rightwards on Lendenfeld's East
ridge. Approaching the summit of Lendenfeld (3203m) Guide and climber
can usually move quickly and easily. The descent into Engineer Col
(3093m) may involve a couple of pitched rope lengths.
The key to the climb is the condition of the 'North Shoulder',
a buttress of ice at the junction of the North and Syme's ridges.
Some seasons this is 'user-friendly' snow-ice, mostly of moderate
angle. At other times there are sections that are steep, broken
hard ice for a few rope lengths to the summit ridge. Above the 'Shoulder'
the terrain is low-angled, but exposed to wind, and the summit is
Techniques range from moving together to sometimes pitching sections
to the top, where the Silberhorn ridge route joins from Plateau,
after 6-8 hours of climbing. From here you can see the Pacific Ocean
to the east and the Tasman Sea to the west, given clear conditions.
After summit ceremonies, rest, and more food, the ridge can be
reversed by short roping in good conditions, and the North Shoulder
dealt with by quickly lowering the top pitches to Engineer Col.
Up and over Lendenfeld, with care on the ridge to Marcel Col, and
then it's a hike home on the technically easy glacier. From the
Mt Tasman summit return to Pioneer hut usually takes 6-7 hours,
arriving back in the late afternoon or early evening.
The walk into Pioneer hut via the Chancellor hut and Fox glacier
is a hard 1½-day ascent with gear and food. We prefer to
maximize high climbing with an aircraft flight at the first opportunity,
depending on weather and snow conditions. At your Guide's discretion,
you may then work up fitness and technique on a smaller climb, (such
as Glacier Pk), before attempting Mt Tasman.
We do try to fly out from Pioneer Hut, either to Mt Cook Village
or Fox, if the weather and conditions allow aircraft landings. The
alternative is to walk down to Chancellor hut, then a strenuous
4-6 hours to the Fox road end.
There are no easy or short climbing routes on Mount Tasman. You
must be familiar with glaciated terrain, and fast on crampons, with
the ability higher on the mountain to move quickly on exposed snow
and ice ridges. Our minimum requirement is a high level of fitness,
with the technical skills of a successful Sunrockice Alpine Climbing
course participant, or equivalent.
Mountaineering is a hazardous activity. The Guide's first priority
is always client safety. He or she is trained to decide whether
Mt Tasman climbing routes can be safely attempted in the prevailing
conditions, or if an alternative ascent should be considered.
Weather conditions, potential ice and rock fall, the extent of
crevasses, snow surface conditions, fitness and experience define
the acceptable margins for a Mt Tasman climb. If Mt Tasman is not
a safe option, your Guide will offer an alternative ascent for your
trip, perhaps the Minarets, Haidinger, Lendenfeld, or some other
high peak from the Franz or Fox glaciers.
- A period of 6 days Guided climbing is covered in the cost, even
though Mt Tasman may take less in very good weather.
- The cost does not include rental equipment, or aircraft access.
- Equipment list sent on receipt of confirmed booking. These
- If your ability and the conditions in the mountains allow,
you may, at your Guide's discretion, undertake another climb,
or return early to Mt Cook Village. No refund is due in this eventuality.
- It may sometimes be possible to stay on for extra days, depending
on your Guide's schedule. This will cost an additional NZ $575
per day for Guide, food, and hut fees.
- Extensions due to poor weather or conditions, including your
fitness and ability, will cost an additional NZ $420 per day.
All Mt Tasman climbs start 10.00am the first day, and finish at
5.00pm the last day, unless otherwise confirmed.
Your Mt Tasman payment includes Guide(s) fees, National Park fees,
food, fuel, hut fees, and G.S.T tax, for the trip duration.
Skiplane access is included. We prefer to maximize high climbing
time by flying in at the first opportunity, depending on aircraft
We also strongly recommend flying out if the weather and conditions
allow aircraft landings. Flying out is an extra and variable
cost, depending on the aircraft type, location, loading, and
flight conditions. We are often able to negotiate a price for you
that's less than the standard charter rate on the day.